Scale: 1/1000 (Modified to be larger. I did not use the standard length of 105m, but 180m for my scaling.)

Parts: 20 (Various Acrylic, Butyrate, & Styrene)

Instructions: Diagrams & Details included here and at Starfleet Museum

Decals: 1 Homemade Decal Seet

Molding Quality: N/A - Parts came from Plastruct. Quality is excellent, of course! Build quality is dependent on the specific modeler ;).

Detail: 9 - There's not much detail necessary on TOS ships, but modeler can add as much as he/she wants/desires.

Accuracy: 9 - Accurate. Ship designs created by Masao Okazaki, and accuracy is up to the modeler.

MSRP: $22.60 USD, parts available from Plastruct.

Overall Rating: 9+ - You'll have to modify almost all parts. Remember, it's a scratchbuild!

Engineering Cone Image

Engineering Example 1
Engineering Example 2

I wanted to display some other ships in 1:1000 scale along side my PL TOS Ships and conversions. When I came across the Group Build at Finescale Modeler's website and forum, I jumped right on.

Although the Daedalus Class is not Masao's design, it isn't cannon either, which gives modelers a lot of room to customize their ships and to use a lot of freedom with its construction. Also, the Starfleet Museum includes one of the most comprehensive locations for information on the Daedalus Class Starship. I'll include a Plastruct Co. parts list, price list, and buildup details below.

Plastruct Parts List: (Prices subject to change)
2" Acrylic Hemisphere (VHH-200), Qty.=2, $5.55
1 1/8" Butyrate White Tube (TB-36), Qty.=1, $3.75
1" Butyrate White Tubing (TB-32), Qty.=1 $3.25
7/8" Butyrate White Tubing (TB-28), Qty.=1 $2.75
3/4" Butyrate White Tubing (TB-24), Qty.=1 $2.45
5/8" Butyrate White Tubing (TB-20), Qty.=1 $2.00
3/8" Acrylic Hemisphere (VHH-12), Qty.=2, $0.90
1/2" Butyrate Tubing (TB-16), Qty.=1, $1.95
3/8" Butyrate Tubing (TB-12), Qty.=1, $1.45
1/4" Butyrate Tubing (TB-8), Qty.=1, $1.15
1/2" Acrylic Elliptical Hemi (VHE-16), Qty.=2 $0.45
0.030" Sheet Styrene (Dunno), Qty.=1, $4.25

Take one of the two inch hemis and drill a 3/8" hole in it for the pylon to connectto the engineering hull. Take the other and drill a 1" hole right through the top of it. Glue the Two 2" hemis together. Cut off 1.25" of the 1 1/8" butyrate tubing. We'll make the engineering hull out of this.

For your new Main hull sphere, cut out a circle 1" in diameter from sheet styrene and glue the 1/2" elliptical hemi right smack dab in the middle of it. This is your Bridge! Glue this section into the 1" hole in the top of your spherical main hull. (I used the bridge module from the PL TOS E kit on mine. I just wanted it different.)

Cut 2 1/2" of the 3/8" butyrate tubing. This will be your pylon. You can either lathe grooves into it or do what I did for the ribs. Stop at your nearest Orthodontist and ask him for a small package of 1/4" rubber bands. Stick these on it for the "ribbing" effect. Glue this into the 3/8" hole in the sphere.

For the nacelle pylons, you can either cut grooves into the 3/8" pylon (to add support) or simply glue strips of sheet syrene approximately 1 3/8" long and 3/8" wide to it on 120 degree angles. For the Nacelles themselves, they're easy. Cut 4.25" of the 1/2" butyrate tubing, insert about 3/8" of te 3/8" tubing in the aft part of each nacelle, put about 1/4" of the 1/4" butyrate tubing inside of that and line them up. Now you can either use the orthodontic rubber bands or lathe grooves into the nacelles. Glue these onto the nacelle pylons and you're good to go to the next step!

For the conic section of the engineering hull, you'll have to cut 1/2" long pieces of each of the tiered-down widths of tubing. Follow the example in the "Engineering Example" Diagrams on the left. Then lathe this down smooth. Add a 1/2" long section of the 1/2" tubing to the front of this for your deflector mount. Glue the other 1/2" acrylic elliptical hemi to the front of this and sand the seams smooth.

To finish up the engineering section, glue a styrene circle about 3/4" in diameter to the aft end of the engineering hull, then follow up with a strip of styrene about 3/8" wide to fit over this for the shuttle bay. As for connecting the Engineering Hull to the pylon, you can do it two ways. First, the most dangerous, is to find a 3/8" drill bit and drill in a hole into the conic front section of the hull. Butyrate is very fragile, and in my construction, I cracked the engineeing hull trying to do this. The other less evasive way would be to taper the pylon that connects to the eng. section and spend a little more time and effort to make it match the conic section just right. This is probably the easiest way to do it without destroying anything, yet it will be more difficult to work through. Once completed, connect and glue!

Conclusions

Links:
Starfleet Museum
Finescale Modeler Magazine
Plastruct

Overall, I really enjoyed putting this little ship together. I am finding myself having more fun with scratchbuilds in my old age (lol) than building actual kits that come to me straight from the factory. I suspect I'll have just as much fun building the other ships from the Starfleet Museum as well.